It Continues Some More

Build session #3 took place on Sunday, September 4, 2011.  I feel like I got a lot accomplished during this build session, and the bike really started to take shape.  I installed the following parts: fork, stem, handlebar, seatpost and saddle, both derailurs, wheels, crankset, pedals, and chain.

We left off last time with test fitting, marking, and cutting the steerer tube. This build session began with cutting the handlebar.

A few months back, as part of my previously-mentioned (in the previous post, that is) desire to introduce a more upright riding position, I purchased a riser handlebar to replace my flat bar.  I didn't pay enough attention when ordering and ended up with a bar that was 685mm wide.  This translates to about 27 inches (26.9688, to be a bit more precise), which is significantly wider than my flat bar.  I lived with it for a while, but didn't really like it, so I decided that this would be a good time to cut it down a bit on each end.  Conveniently for me, the bar was already factory-marked for cutting. I chose the furthest-in cutting marks and cut away.

Cutting metal pipes (steerer tube and handlebar in this case) is step one of a two part process.  Step two is filing and/or sanding down the cut end of the pipe to get rid of burs and any sharp edges.  The end result should be a smooth surface that is safe for handling.

On to the photos and comments.

The fork:

The fork, as mentioned in a previous post, is a Surly 1 1/8" unicrown fork with threadless steerer.  This is what it looked like after cutting and sanding.  I have included the small piece of pipe that was cut from it.

The Stem:

The stem is an Easton EA50 with 9 degrees of rise and a 31.5mm clamp.

The handlebar:

The handlebar is an Easton EA50 Monkeybar, with a 31.5mm clamp size.  This is what it looked like after cutting and sanding.  I have included the end pieces that were lopped off.

Here you see the handlebar installed.

The seatpost and saddle:

The seapost is a generic post, 32mm in diameter.  The saddle is a Specialized Body Geometry.  Nothing special, but they do their jobs.

The wheels:

The front wheel is a Mavic Crossride, with 24 flat spokes.  It is a standard 26" wheel, and it is still true after nearly 4 years of riding.

The rear wheel is a Mavic Crossland, also with 24 flat spokes.  Like the front wheel, it is still true after nearly four years of riding. Unlike the front wheel, however, it is not just a standard 26" wheel.  See this older post to for more details, and to read about my rear wheel/tire saga.

The bike is finally on its own two feet.

The crankset and pedals: 

The crankset is an FSA with 22, 32, and 44 tooth rings.  Crank arms are 175mm in length.  This crankset and the bottom bracket were sold as a packaged deal, which turned out to be quite convenient for me as it meant that I could be fairly certain that they would work well together.

The pedals are Performance brand metal platform pedals with toe clips.  I normally run feet belts, too.  Yes I am aware of modern clipless pedals, and I have tried some, but I have never felt the need or desire to buy them. 

The front and rear derailurs:

 The front derailur is a top-pull X-9 from SRAM (I'm still not sure how SRAM is pronounced).

The rear derailur is an X-7, also by SRAM.  The cassette in the picture is an 11-32 8-speed, branded by SRAM.  Do you see a pattern here? I have been a big fan of SRAM products ever since the very first generation of Grip Shift shifters.



The chain:

The chain is by SRAM.  I don't recall the model or number.  It is silverish.  I do not use the Power Link that comes standard with SRAM chains - I still break and unbreak chains with my trusty Park chain tool.

Progress thus far.

For this build session I brought Daisy out to the garage instead of Satchmo. She is generally calmer and less skittish (and quiter) than Satchmo, so I thought she might enjoy the experience more than he did.  She stayed in her carrier for a bit, then came out and explored a bit.  She spent most of her time either behind bike wheels in a corner or behind a stack of boxes.

Remember that it's right to tighten and left to

bIsh