Monday, December 23, 2013
After checking in to our hotel we decided to stock up on supplies and explore the area a bit. Around the corner from our hotel was a Walgreens, and we stocked up on some snacks and beverages for the coming week. Then we wandered two blocks north to the beach. In Puerto Rico, as in Aruba, all of the beaches are public beaches. We explored the beach and the surrounding areas and noted the important landmarks and dining facilities.
At night we dined at the fanciest restaurant at which we have ever dined - Perla at La Concha. Perla is the name of the restaurant, and it is shaped like a big oyster; La Concha is the name of the resort/hotel to which it is attached. The food is the type of fancy, upscale food one would expect an Iron Chef to prepare, and it was delicious. If you ever dine at Perla, be sure to have some of the awesome Smoked Trout Chowder with your meal. Service at Perla was excellent, and the atmosphere was calm comfortable, and relaxed. As an added bonus, our table had a view of the beach.
Inside Perla |
After a deep, relaxing sleep overnight, and a nourishing breakfast at the hotel's breakfast buffett, we set out the next morning on an all-day tour of the island. Of course, one day is not sufficient to see the entire island in depth, but we saw and heard enough to fill our brains to capacity for the day. The company that provided the tour was not planning to be open on Christmas Eve, but fortunately for us they had failed to note this on their booking website and our money and booking were accepted. In the spirit of good faith and good customer service they decided to go ahead with the tour. Normally their policy is to have a minimum of four people per tour, but on this tour it was just the two of us. Our driver and guide, Sergio Something O'Neal (he has two last names), picked us up from our hotel and we set out for the eastern side of Puerto Rico. While he was driving Sergio provided a running verbal account of the history of Puerto Rico, starting way back with the original inhabitants of the island and ending up in the present with President Obama's visit and the question of Puerto Rico's status as a commonwealth. It was a bit rainy as we were driving east along the coast, and Sergio pointed out various things to us and explained about people being injured (and sometimes killed) by falling coconuts (it's not a laughing matter). Among other things, we learned that different municipalities paint their light and telephone poles with different colors, as you can see in the photo below.
After driving east through many small towns and cities we arrived at El Yunque National Forest, the only tropical rain forest in the United States. In El Yunque we first stopped at an observation tower to take in a grand view of the surrounding area. Said tower has exactly 100 steps to the very top.
The view from the top |
All around us we saw various varieties of palm trees, and most palm trees had several bromeliads growing from their trunks. The bromeliads are not parasitic to the palm trees - they just use the trunks as something to attach their roots to. Sergio did not know how the bromeliads initially attach themselves to the trees. In addition to bromeliads and palm trees we saw a lot of other trees and plants. Many of the trees had root systems partially elevated above the ground. According to Sergio, this is because of the abundance of water in the rain forest - the elevated roots allow the rain water to flow through so as to not drown the roots with too much water. One of the more interesting sights along the path was a mature walking stick, or stick insect. This particular stick insect was about 5 or 6 inches long, and Sergio let it walk on his hand a bit (neither of us handled the stick insect). Nearby we saw a smaller, immature stick insect - about 3 inches long. As we neared the second tower we came upon a mysterious type of plant that Sergio knew nothing about, and that's saying something - he knows all about the various plants in El Yunque. You can see said mystery plant below and try to guess what it is.
The second observation tower had orange lichen growing on its outer wall. Its stairway was narrow, dark, and damp - perfect conditions for slippage and injury. Did I mention that it also had no handrail? We made it up and down safely, and the view was spectacular, despite the drifting mists in air.
After a leisurely hike back down to the car, and a light lunch of chilled meats and native crackers, we headed out of El Yunque, stopping briefly at a spectacular waterfall for pictures.
From El Yunque we made our way to the beach for a kayaking trip through the mangroves into one of Puerto Rico's famed bio bays. These bodies of water are known for their displays of bioluminescence, in the form of microbes that light up when they are agitated by kayak oars, hands in the water, swimmers, etc. On the way to the beach we stopped at a small fruit market and picked up a coconut, some mangos, and a soursop. The coconut was opened at the fruit stand and straws were provided so that we could suck out the precious sweet coconut water.
At the beach we loaded ourselves onto the kayaks and set out with a different guide who's name we don't recall - I'm going to call her Imelda. Imelda was a good kayakist and guide. We rowed through a mangrove maze, where we spotted an iguana (apparently iguanas are considered pest animals in Puerto Rico), and into a lake-like body of water. Then we waited, and waited. We had arrived a little before sunset, and the little microbes only come out at night. While we were waiting a rain shower came. We rowed under the cover of the mangroves and waited for it to pass. The mangroves did not provide a lot of cover, however, and we all got quite wet. Imelda was able to check the rain's progress with a live weather radar app on her phone (said phone being in a waterproof case). Eventually the rain stopped, the sky darkened, and nothing happened. The little buggers apparently didn't like the rain, and the most we saw was a faint glow around the paddles when we were rowing.
On the bio bay with our guide, Imelda. |
Sergio drove us back to our hotel, all the while continuing his running history of Puerto Rico. Two of the standout events he talked about were the sinking of the Maine, and the unofficially-named Obama Freeway. As the story goes, before the President's visit to Puerto Rico the people in charge of such things decided to smooth out the stretch of freeway that the Presidential motorcade would be using - the rest of the freeway was left in whatever state it was prior to his visit. The result is a normal freeway ride, then a section of very smooth and quiet freeway for a while, then back to normal freeway.
Wednesday, December 25, 2013
December 25 - Christmas Day. What did you do on Christmas? We took a cruise on a catamaran and did some snorkeling. I drank my first (and last) rum. On hearing this, I'm guessing that half of you who know me are thinking along the lines of, "Woohoo! It's about time, man!", and the other half are thinking along the lines of, "Why in the world would you ever want to do something so stupid?" To which half do you belong? :) Back to the narrative. We got a bit of a late start that morning, but it wasn't our fault. Apparently the previous renters of our car, or the rental place itself, had left the car's interior dome light in the "always on" position, and since we picked up the car in the daytime and didn't drive it for almost two days we didn't notice this and turn off the light. The result? Dead battery, and the rental place wanting to charge us $50 for a jump start (the hotel personnel could not find their jump starting device). Fortunately for us AAA operates in Puerto Rico, and after a short wait (much shorter than we typically wait here at home) a technician showed up, gave us a jump, and we set off east toward Fajardo. It was a bright sunshiny day, and after an uneventful and picturesque drive - at least for me as a passenger; for driver Becky it was 40 minutes of harrowing speeding and hoping she wouldn't be pulled over by the local highway patrol because we were running late due to the battery issue - we arrived at the marina in Fajardo mere minutes before the catamaran's departure.
After a brief bit of instruction from the bartender/guide/emcee, Chris, we set sail (and motor) for Icocos Island. The weather was beautiful - the sun was shining in a clear sky, there was a slight wind blowing, and the water was a beautiful blue-green color. At various points on our outbound journey we encountered other boats crossing our path at various angles.
Various small islands also crossed our path at various angles. We reached Icocos Island, anchored a few yards off the beach, and Chris gave us some basic snorkeling and lunch advice. Then the stairs were lowered and people were allowed to disembark and embark at-will. We had a good group of people on the boat with us. There were several families, and everyone was friendly and not obnoxious or rowdy (and no one got drunk). We really were fortunate in that regard - it made the entire day much more enjoyable.
Palomino Island |
Palominito Island |
After our stay at Palominito Island we started our return cruise to the big island. It was during this return cruise that I ordered my first, and last, rum drink. I had a rum and Coke, consisting of equal parts rum and Coke. The rum had a very distinctive taste that was not completely pleasant. It also had a burning feel as it went down. I occasionally sipped at it for a while and I eventually finished it. As we got nearer to the marina the crew pointed out a wooden ship that they claimed played the part of Queen Anne's Revenge in the previously-mentioned Pirates of the Caribbean movie. At the time of our cruise it was not in full movie costume. This ship, so claimed the crew, will also be in an upcoming 5th movie in the series.
After disembarking at the marina we drove back home to our hotel, changed clothes, and walked to Cafe Angeles restaurant around the corner from the hotel. We both ordered pork for dinner, but two different cuts. Portions were large and satisfying, and the house-made hot sauce added an additional layer of goodness to the meat. We were seated near the entrance, in the open-air section, and we saw several interesting characters walk by on the sidewalk - including someone wearing a live snake around her neck.
Thursday, December 26, 2013
On Thursday we decided to be self-guided tourists and visit some interesting sites to the west of San Juan. First stop was the Camuy River Cave Park. We were advised by Sergio that this should be our first stop for the day because the tours fill up fast, and he was right. We arrived sometime mid-morning, signed up for the main cavern tour, and waited. We didn't have to wait too long, however, and the tour began with a brief film that told of the history of the area and of the cavern. After the film we boarded a diesel-powered tram and set off toward the actual cavern. On the way to the cavern we enjoyed the trees and bushes, as well as the smell of the diesel exhaust. The tramway wound down into a gigantic sinkhole and we disembarked the tram to walk down a concrete path into the cavern.
The orange thing is the tram. |
After lunch we headed to see something I've been interested in for quite a while - the Arecibo Observatory, the largest radio telescope in the world. You may remember Arecibo from such movies as Goldeneye and Contact. Our trip from Camuy to Arecibo was a bit of an adventure. Let me preface it by offering some advice - when a tour guide (in this case, Sergio) takes time to write down explicit driving directions to a place in the hills of Puerto Rico, and Google Maps tells you to take a different route, TAKE THE ROUTE YOUR TOUR GUIDE PROVIDES. Google Maps is wonderful most of the time, but sometimes the locals know the roads and the area a lot better. We learned this from bitter experience, and I take the blame since I was doing the navigating and course-plotting. Google Maps told us to turn off the main highway on a little road that wound into the hills. I chose to follow this route instead of Sergio's route, and we had a most terrifying time navigating tiny little twisty mountainous roads leading through some beautiful country. We encountered steep, pothole filled roads that pushed that little Hyundai's traction-control and anti-slip capabilities to their limits. And that is no exaggeration - we were afeared that we would not be able to make it up some of the steep grades and that we would get stuck way out in the Puerto Rican countryside with no cell signal or AAA access. That brave little car got us up and down roads we had no business being on, and we can confidently recommend the Hyundai Accent to anyone looking for a new small car. Eventually our route met up with the normal prescribed route, the road widened a bit, and we arrived at the visitor parking area at Arecibo Observatory.
From the parking lot it's a bit of an uphill walk to the visitor center.
But it's worth the walk. The museum at the visitor center isn't so great - a lot of the displays seemed dated and lackluster - but seeing the radio telescope with your own eyes makes up for the lackluster museum. I was quite thrilled to see that the people at Arecibo still recognize Pluto as a planet. We need more people to stand up for Pluto and get its planetary status reinstated.
Our first view of the radio telescope |
The massive dish |
The massive receivers |
One of three massive support towers |
Heledaria Lares is world-famous for its wild, wacky, and outrageous flavors - such as codfish, rice, rice and beans, corn, sweet potato, strawberry shortcake, rum, chicken, rice pudding, guava, and such-like (to us, who live just north of the garlic capitol of the world, the garlic ice cream wasn't very exotic or strange). We arrived at Heledaria Lares after navigating the tricky, tight streets of Lares, found a parking spot, parked, got out of the car, then entered the ice creamery and got into line. The flavors are labelled in Spanish, but the staff is happy to translate them into English. When it was our turn to order Becky chose a single scoop of strawberry cheesecake, and I chose a single scoop each of corn and cazuela (a mixture of pumpkin and sweet potato).
Friday, December 27, 2014
On Friday we decided to explore Old San Juan in the morning and then enjoy a sailing cruise of the Old San Juan bay. We had actually decided on the sailing cruise prior to Friday. You remember Imelda from earlier in the week? She felt so badly about our kayaking experience - forgetting to issue us life jackets and helmets, the rain, Becky freezing, and the bio bugs not glowing - that she offered us a free sailing cruise/tour of the Old San Juan bay. She had been in touch with Becky throughout the week, via texting, and we accepted the Friday afternoon time slot. And since we would be cruising in the Old San Juan bay we thought it made sense to explore Old San Juan. On our drive to the old town, while waiting for a traffic light, we watched a street performer of some sort. He was wearing a straw hat and scraping a cheese grater with a large fork. Right before he posed for this photo he claimed that this performance was "genuine Puerto Rican culture." We remain skeptical of this clam.
Genuine Perto Rican culture? |
Google Maps directed us through the narrow streets to the public parking lot near the old town, and we found a convenient parking space. Old San Juan is mostly inside the thick walls of the old fort, and the streets tend to slope upward from where the parking lot is. On the outside of the walls there are several cylindrical lookout posts. There is an official term for them, but I don't recall it at this time. You can see one such lookout post below.
We entered the old town and followed the brick road upward toward the Cristo Chapel. According to legend, this small chapel was built to honor a miraculous event - as the story goes a young man on horseback couldn't convince his speeding mount to stop before they both went over the edge of the wall. Miraculously, instead of them both being dead, the young man and his horse were completely unharmed. The official story is that the chapel was built to prevent men and horses from going over the edge of the wall.
The Cristo Chapel |
Parque de las Palomas |
Imelda was waiting for us at the sailboat, and she had orange juice, Coke, and fresh strawberries on board for our enjoyment. After giving us basic safety information and queuing up some jazz on Pandora we set out on our way to the Old San Juan Bay. We saw a lot of sights, and Imelda shared a lot of current and historical information, including a tip on some real estate to not invest in.
The ships pictured below are used to ferry supplies to Puerto Rico's outlying islands. Different color schemes indicate the different fleets. Up close we could tell that at least one of the ships had had a change of name sometime in the past.
Do not invest in these buildings. |
NSA radar domes |
Another view of the NSA radar domes |
The yellowish building between the blue and red buildings is the one that is called the world's narrowest building.
As we cruised the bay Becky mainly consumed the Coke, and I mainly consumed the orange juice, but at one point I mixed the two, as I am wont to do on occasion, and the idea of combining Coke and orange juice seemed to blow Imelda's mind. Below are two views of the point of the old fort - one with us, and one without us.
We got a good view of the Bacardi rum factory. According to Imelda, although Bacardi is the biggest rum maker in the world, and despite its importance to Puerto Rico's economy, the locals prefer Don Q rum over Bacardi rum. Apparently Don Q is a stronger rum. And I believe that the rum I consumed on the catamaran was Don Q.
The Bacardi rum factory |
Random sighting while on our cruise |
What is it? |
We ate dinner at a restaurant with an outside seating area. I ordered a seafood medley/stew with mofongo, and Becky had the grouper filet tempura. The only issues with the dinner were the slower-than-expected service and the fragment of shell I bit down on. Maybe it's just a Puerto Rico thing, or a Caribbean thing, but we noticed that service at several restaurants was a bit slower than what we are used to at restaurants here at home. The food was excellent, and the views also. Our table's positioning and the dwindling outside light allowed me plenty of opportunity to play with the various shutter speeds and exposure timings on my camera, and I was able to capture this striking image of the top of a building.
I also captured some nice night pictures of the beach and coastline from our dinner table. Here is one such photo.
After our wonderful meal we stopped in at a local Ben & Jerry's ice cream shop for some after-dinner ice cream. Becky had the Mango Mango Sorbet, and I had Americone Dream and something with peanut butter in it (possibly Chubby Hubby).
Saturday, December 28, 2013
On Saturday we packed up, drove to the airport, and flew home. To see more photos that were not included in this blog post please click on this link.
Everyone there will have moved
bIsh